WWII watch cap crown shaping

Like so many other hat knitters, I've knitted the classic WWII watch cap, which is also known as Beanie no. 212, more than a handful of times. (You can find it on Ravelry here and here, respectively.) It's a charming, quick knit that's easy to resize, but I've never really liked the crown shaping on the original.

I've knit a lot of these hats, and only one's had the original crown shaping for the decreases. I'm sharing two crown shaping variations I keep going back to below. I always knit this hat in the round, and my crown shaping patterns assume you will be knitting in the round, too.

Alternate crown shaping 1

This alternate crown shaping follows the 6x2 ribbing of the previous section for the bulk of each round so that the ribbing continues throughout the entire hat.

The 6x2 ribbing continues to the top of the hat.
Three 4-stitch wide knit sections continue all the way to the center of the top of the hat, forming a subtle 3-pointed star.

Written out:

Divide stitches on 3 double pointed needles with stitches evenly divided among the three needles or mark out even sections with stitch markers if decreasing across 2 circular needles or with magic loop.

  1. (k1, ssk or skp, k if previous row was knit or p if previous row was purl until 3 stitches are left on the needle/before the next marker, k2tog, k) x3.
  2. Repeat step 1 until 4 stitches remain on each needle/in each marked section.
  3. Cut and draw yarn through the remaining 12 stitches 2-3 times. Tie off and weave in the ends.

Alternate crown shaping 2

This alternate shaping both maintains the ribbing throughout the crown shaping and accentuates it by creating a sort of three-pointed star with 3 of the 2-stitch-wide purl parts from the previous 6x2 ribbed section. This shaping really only makes sense when making a size hat where the number of stitches is evenly divisible by 24, so I typically only do it on size "small" hats (cast on 96 stitches). You could adjust the needle size and gauge for a yarn that works well at that gauge to make this work for different sizes.

The 6x2 ribbing continues to the top of the hat.
Three 2-stitch wide purl sections continue all the way to the center of the top of the hat, forming a channeled 3-pointed star.

Written out:

Stop the last 6x2 ribbed row 1 stitch early and divide stitches on 3 double pointed needles with stitches evenly divided among the three needles or mark out even sections with stitch markers if decreasing across 2 circular needles or with magic loop. Ensure that each needle transition or marker has a single purl stitch on each side.

  1. (p1, ssk or skp, k if previous row was knit or p if previous row was purl until 3 stitches are left on the needle/before the next marker, k2tog, p) x3.
  2. Repeat step 1 until 4 stitches remain on each needle/in each marked section.
  3. Cut and draw yarn through the remaining 12 stitches 2-3 times. Tie off and weave in the ends.

Additional project notes

  • Needle: US 7 - 4.5 mm
  • Gauge: 19 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
  • Hats made for me should generally be a small (cast on 96 stitches), and hats made for my partner Matt should generally be a medium (cast on 104 stitches).

Footnotes

  1. Either of these will create a left-leaning decrease, so use whichever one you prefer.
  2. Ibid.